Kaleidoscope Series – Lesson 2

Maximum Flexibility

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      "Whenever we have a choice of two or more equally attractive calls, we choose the CHEAPER/CHEAPEST such call for maximum flexibility."
This is the essence of Maximum Flexibility or "Maxi-Flex".  
      As defined above, the concept is very easy to express and understand.   More difficult is appreciating just how often this concept applies !  
      In contemplating our next call, we always start by identifying the "candidate" calls.   What actions sound reasonable ?   Once we have these lined up we analyze each option before selecting which one seems best.   But what if there is an approximate "tie" for "best" ?   This is where Maxi-Flex comes in: as a "tie-breaker".
---- Aims of Maxi-Flex ----
      The purpose of Maxi-Flex actions may be, in order of frequency:
     1.   To allow partner room to "correct" our call as appropriate, based on Partner's hand.
     2.   To maximize the chance of being able to make one of our other alternative bids later ... a "2-for-1".
     3.   Lead directing, as with delaying a raise.
     4.   To "hide" our fit, when the adversaries have the majority of strength so that the opponent with 3 or 4 cards in our suit won't know that their partner is short there.
     5.   To give the opponents every opportunity to come back into the auction, when we have solid defensive values.   In this context, Maxi-Flex is the opposite of pre-emption.
     6.   To feign weakness, when a display of strength might provoke an unwanted sacrifice by the opponents (see Killdeer Coup below).
     7.   To feign strength when weak, hoping to bluff the opponents out of bidding on (see Kenney Coup below).
      The fundamental tendency to bid 4-card suits up the line is in the spirit of Maximum Flexibility.   By doing so, we can never miss a 4-4 fit.   Here is the classic Maxi-Flex decision:
K J 10 x     K x     A Q J x     A 10 x
WestNorthEastSouth
1 Pass 1 Pass
2NT
WestNorthEastSouth
1 Pass 1 Pass
1
      After 1:1, should we bid 2NT to show our 18-19 flat, or 1 to show our 4-card Spade suit ?
      2NT has the advantage of showing our strength and general distibution in one bid.   However, it may involve missing a 4-4 Spade fit — especially if Partner is too weak to bid again.   1 will run no such risk.   "But 1 is not forcing," one might argue.   "We could end up in 1 !"
      This is true.   But, 1:1:1 shows 13-18 points.   Responder can ONLY pass with 6 or 7 pts and 3 or 4 Spades.
If that is the case, we will be happy to be in 1, making a few, while others struggle in 2NT.   If things break badly, we could easily be making 1, while everyone else is down in 2NT.
      If Responder does bid again over 1, as with a sign off in 2 or 1NT, we can then rebid 2NT to show our 18-19 points.   In this way, 1 is a "2-for-1" choice, allowing us to show our Spades and our distribution (albeit later).
----- The Pass -----
      The cheapest call is always a Pass.   It is also the most flexible, since it allows Partner the full range of options: Doubling or Redoubling in some cases, Passing or Bidding in others.
K J x     Q 10 x x     x x x     A x
LHOPardRHOYou
1 1 Dble* ??
      LHO opens 1 and Partner Overcalls 1.   RHO Doubles (negative).   With less, we might raise to 2 or higher so as to pre-empt the opponents.   With more, we might Redouble and raise Hearts later or, if playing that cuebids are limit raises, we might cuebid 2.   This hand falls somewhere between those two extremes.   Game is not out of the question, if Partner has the full maximum of 16 points, but even 3 might be too high, if Partner has a minimum eight points.   Consider these possible ensuing auctions:
LHOPardRHOYou
1 1 Dble* Redbl
1 2 Pass ??

     (1)   Is Partner merely showing a shapely 2-suiter, unwilling to defend 1 ?   If so, with our poor Diamonds, we may be too high in 3.   Or does Partner really have extras ?
If so, we may have game here, but 2 will understate our Heart support (sounding like a mere preference), while 3 may overstate our strength (showing more than 10 points).
Compare this to:
LHOPardRHOYou
1 1 Dble* Pass
1 2 Pass ??
     (2)   Now there can be NO doubt that Partner is showing a good overcall, bidding 2 freely opposite a passing partner.   NOW we can confidently bid 3 so as to strongly invite 4.   Partner will discern from our failure to act earlier that we have a hand in the nether region between a solid Redouble or Cuebid and a Pre-Emptive raise.   Hence, we will be showing about 10 points.
LHOPardRHOYou
1 1 Dble* Pass
1 Pass Pass ??
     (3)   Here we can bid a mere 2, knowing that Partner is unlikely to have the full 16 points that we'd need for 4.   Overcalling Partner may also infer that our support might not include an honour for such a delayed raise.
Consider this situation:
4 3 2     A x     x x x x     K x x x
LHOPardRHOYou
1 1 2 ??
      At IMPs with the opponents vulnerable, LHO opens 1 and Partner overcalls 1.   RHO bids 2 now.   2 looks reasonable here at first glance.   But how will the hand unfold, if we do ?
      When the opponents bid strongly in the Minors, can a NoTrump bid be far behind ?   It sounds like Partner has made a rather light Overcall here.   RHO didn't bid freely in NoTrump here.   This raises the possibility that LHO may become declarer in a NoTrump contract.   If so, do we want to do ANYTHING that will encourage a Spade lead from Partner ?
LHOPardRHOYou
1 1 2 Pass
3 Pass Pass 3
LHOPardRHOYou
1 1 2 Pass
3 Pass Pass 3
      Because the 2 free bid by RHO is forcing, we have the luxury of passing here.   If 3 or 3 is subsequently passed around to us, we *may* balance with 3.  This pass-then-raise approach suggests WEAK trumps, generally.   This is similar to when we have a good hand but a weak suit and are considering an overcall:
A J x     J x x x x     A x     A J
      Over 1 open, PASS and bid the Hearts LATER, perhaps.
----- An Extreme Case From Tourney Play -----
      Having opened 1 on this marginal hand,
K x x x     A x x x x     x x     A
YouLHOPardRHO
1 Pass 1 2
??
you hear Partner's 1 response overcalled with 2 by RHO.   The opponents are vulnerable at MatchPoints.   Your call ?
      96% of the players in the field made the mistake of bidding 2 here.   Not surprisingly, Responder went overboard hoping for more from Opener in light of Opener's free bid over 2.
YouLHOPardRHO
1 Pass 1 2
Pass Pass Dble* Pass
2
      Only a very few players PASSED with this hand, waiting for Partner to make a Competitive Double.   After this bidding sequence, Responder will surmise from our reluctance to bid 2 earlier that we have opened on dead minimal values.
      Free bids — including free raises — show extra values.   In essence, then, bidding 2 directly over 2 "in front of Partner" here virtually guaranteed a minus score, while passing 2 cinched a plus.
      Denouement: In case you were curious, 2 was passed out at the table, leading to down TWO, +200, for a sizable gain and one of the very few plus scores for the opening side.   Responder had this hand,
Q x x x    Q    K J 10 x    Q x x x
and was delighted to be able to defend 2.   :)
----- The Double -----
      The best example of a Maxi-Flex double is the Competitive Double (described in Rainbow Lesson #8).
    K J x x x     x x     J x x     K Q
PardRHOYouLHO
1 1 1 2
Pass Pass ??
      After this auction, as Responder we do not want to sell out to 2.   Having suggested 5+ Spades already with 1, a 2 rebid would be rather unilateral, and would imply 6+ Spades.   Instead, we make a Competitive Double, hoping Partner will support Spades or be able to rebid 3 with a 5+card Diamond suit.
      It follows that Opener, with minimal opening values and a long suit, should NOT bid the suit freely if RHO intervenes.   Rather, Opener should pass and let Responder balance.
    x x     K x     K Q J 10 x x     K x x
YouLHOPardRHO
1 Pass 1 1
??
      Here, you PASS.   Do NOT bid 2 !  
      Let Partner double 1 competitively, and THEN bid 2 ... to slow Partner down.
      Whenever you have a close decision between a slightly offshape Takeout Double and an Overcall, go with the Double, whenever you lack a good 5+card suit.   This is especially true, if your choice was between a minimal 1NT Overcall and a Double.
K 10 x x     A Q x     K 10 x     K 10 x
      With no source of tricks in NoTrump, do NOT consider a 1NT overcall.   Double.
      Such a double has a number of advantages over any suit or NoTrump overcall, whenever our values are scattered and our hand has some modicum of support for any unbid suit.   These advantages include:
     1.   Partner may have a Penalty Pass.   If this is the case, overcalling may get us into trouble.
     2.   We encourage Partner to bid/lead hir suit rather than ours ... for now, at least.
     3.   If Partner has a bust, we will play in the weaker hand's long suit ... forcing some entries to the weaker hand in this manner.
     4.   Suit bids — be they overcalls or opposite a takeout double — are usually harder to double for Penalty than NoTrump bids.
----------- Questions -----------
1.    Q 9 x x    K 10 9    Q x x    Q 10 x   Both Vul.
(a) PardRHOYouLHO
1 1NT ??
  (a) Your call ?
(b) PardRHOYouLHO
1 Dble Pass 1
Pass Pass ??
  (b) Your call ?
----- The Redouble -----
      The best example of a Maxi-Flex Redouble is an SOS Redouble.
1.       K J x     J 10 x     x x     A K x x x
WestNorthEastSouth
1 2 Dble Pass
Pass Rdbl
      This is a true SOS Redouble.
2.       Q J 10 x x     Q 9 8 x x     x x     x
RHOPardLHOYou
1 2 Pass Pass
Dble Pass Pass ??
      After 1-2-P-P-Dble-P-P or 1-2-Dble (where the double of 2 by RHO is alerted as being for PENALTY) a redouble by advancer will ask Overcaller to run to hir better unbid suit (Hearts or Spades here).   This is often misidentified as an "SOS Redouble", too, but is properly termed a "Kock Werner" Redouble.
      As a matter of correct nomenclature, only Declarer (i.e., the first person to bid the Doubled suit on our side) can make a true SOS Redouble.
      Consider this hand:
10 9 x x x     x x x     x     x x x x
PardLHOYouRHO
1 Dble Rdbl
      Partner's 1 opening bid is Doubled for takeout.   The opponents are vul.   Your call ?
      The orthodox action is to jump to 4 on such hands.   Some devious types, though, will note the favourable vulnerability and "psyche a beaver", redoubling in an effort to bluff the opponents out of game.   This is particularly effective, if our 1 bid is limited to 15 or 16 points, as in Precision.   Of course, after redoubling here we will pull any subsequent Penalty double by Partner to Spades.   Who knows ?   We *may* end up being allowed to play in 4 undoubled !   :))
      We will call this idea of pretending to be stronger than we are in order to bluff the opponents out of acting a "Kenney Coup", after Kenney "KSired" Sired.   The psychic beaver (i.e., Redouble) is the simplest example of a Kenney Coup.   More on this later.
----- Bids -----
      Imagine this horror story:
x x     x x x     x x x x     x x x x
RHOPardLHOYou
1 Dble Rdbl ??
      1-Dble-Rdbl to you.   And, yes, of course, you are vulnerable.   Your call ?
      If we bid 2 and clubs turns out to be our better fit, we are stuck.   We would have to go to the 3 level.   If we bid 2, though, Doubler may be able to bid 2 as appropriate.   And, if we bid 2 and an opponent doubles too loudly, we can then bid 2, showing our second suit.
      Notice that, as Advancer, we bid the lower of the two suits whenever we are so weak that we do not plan to bid freely again.   Compare this to:
x x     K x x     Q 10 x x     A 10 x x
RHOPardLHOYou
1 Dble Pass ??
      After 1-Dble-Pass, we don't have enough for 3 or 3, but we WILL bid 2 so that if given the chance we WILL compete with 3 later.
      Always look for a bid cheaper than the "obvious" bid, which may solve a tactical problem for you.  
      Consider this hand at IMPs, where your side is vulnerable:
    K x     Q J x x     x x     Q J x x x
RHOYouLHOOpener
Pass Pass 1
Pass 2 Pass 3
3 ??
      First, let's define where we WANT to be. We would like to play this hand in 4, given our double fit.   The problem is that our non-vulnerable opponents are liable to bid 4.
As it happens, 4 will be tough to beat, and will never fail by more than one.   Such is often the case when both sides have a double fit.   Here, we seem to have a double fit in the rounds.   They must have one in the pointed suits.   Fortunately, WE may be the only one at the table who knows that they have this double fit in Spades and Diamonds.   So how might we convince them NOT to bid 4 here ?
      We start by considering all the options:
      Pass = May net us –140, if Partner passes too.
      Dble = Penalty.   Will likely net us –530 or –630.
      3NT = May net us –300, if Partner passes.
      4 = Announces our double fit in the roundeds.
              Will certainly provoke 4.   +100 or –590.
      4 = We'll probably hear 4 as "cheap insurance".
      4 is certainly the most attractive — or least UNattractive — of these options.   Before you reach for "4" in your bidding box, though, consider the Kenney Coup of 4.   This will be a Cuebid, suggesting SLAM !   While this may get us overboard, it should convince the opponents not to push us anywhere.
      Denouement: At the table, Partner bid 4 (thankfully) opposite our 4 psychic cuebid. This was followed by the three fastest passes in bridge history !   :)
-------- The Killdeer Coup ---------
      The Killdeer Coup is an extreme example of Maxi-Flex, where we pretend to be WEAKER than we are, in order to dissuade the opponents from bidding on.   It is the opposite of a Kenney Coup.
      North-South are vulnerable, East-West are not.  
Sitting West, on which of these two auctions would you prefer to defend 4 ?
#1 WestNorthEastSouth
1 2 2 4
#2 WestNorthEastSouth
1 2 2 3
3 Pass Pass 4

Against auction #1, as East-West we would take the sacrifice of 4 sacrifice in any close decision.  
On auction #2, though, it sounds as if we may be able to beat 4.   After all, South was willing to play in 3 and then, without another word from North, South bid to 4 !  
      Now let us turn the tables and look at the situation from South's point of view:
South:    x     Q 10 x x     A J 10 x x     A x x
      After 1-2-2, as South we should feel fairly secure that our vulnerable 4 will make.   But, if we jump to 4, our non-vulnerable opponents will almost surely bid to 4.   While 4 may make or go down plenty, we should expect 4 to fail by one trick on an average day.   We might expect +100 , if we Double
... against our +620 in 4.   :(
      So what might we, as South, do to DIScourage the opponents from sacrificing in 4 here ?   Easy.   Bid 3 !   Now one of three things will happen:
  1. We will end up in 3.   A disaster, you may think.   But, no !   +170 is better than the +100 that we would have gotten had we bid 4 here, stampeding them into 4.   The opponents may chortle about us missing game in 3 until they see that they lost 2 IMPs on this board !   :)

  2. Partner may bid 4.   If this is so, we should consider bidding 5, when and if they sacrifice in 4.

  3. They will compete with 3 and then South will bid 4 ... and that the opponents may choose to defend !  

      The latter example is the Killdeer Coup.   By jumping to 4, we appear too eager, and will only stampede them into 4.  
By limping into game, we may induce them to defend 4 !  
      Let's look at another situation.   With the opponents vulnerable, you hold:
    x x     10 9 x x     x x x x x     K
LHOPardRHOYou
1 2 4 Pass
Pass 5 Pass ??
      What to do here ?   Bid 5, right ?   After all, 5 rates to go down only 2 or 3, and the opponents can almost certainly make 5 ... and maybe 6 !  
      If you DO bid 5 here, the opponents will almost certainly bid on to 5 (or higher).   We will lose –650 instead of the –300 or –500 that 5 doubled would likely cost us.   So how can we convince them to let us play in 5 doubled ?
      Easy.   We "blood the hounds" by passing 5 !   Maxi-Flex.   We certainly wouldn't mind playing in 5 undoubled.   No doubt, though, LHO will double 5.   Then, and ONLY then, will we "RELUCTANTLY" sidle over to 5.   If we catch the opponents in a "doubling rhythm", we may be allowed to play in 5 Doubled, after we scramble into it.
      This, again, is a Killdeer Coup, named after the bird which feigns a broken wing in order to lure predators away from its nest.
      Try it sometime.   When it works, it is a thing of beauty ... and one of KALTICA's personal favourite bidding ploys.
------- Final Quiz -------
1.       7     A 10 7 5     J 4     10 8 7 6 4 2
      This hand came up in a recent Novice-Mentor OKBridge tourney.   None vul.   1-Dble-2 to you.   Your call ?
     2.   Are there some ways to detect a Killdeer Coup ?
     3.   Having detected/suspected a Killdeer Coup, what should we do, once they've bid game ?
      4.   Many assume that a Killdeer Coup works only against newer players.   Does it work against more experienced opposition ?
      5.   At which form of game, is a Killdeer Coup more likely to succeed: Matchpoints or IMPs ?
      6.   K Q x x    x x    Q x x    x x x x   None vul, IMPs.  
WestNorthEastSouth
1 2 2 3
Pass Pass ??
WestNorthEastSouth
1 2 2 3
Pass Pass 3 Pass
Pass 4 Pass Pass
??
      What call ?   Your opponents are two shifty-looking KaleidoScope Series graduates.
      7.   The auction proceeds thus and comes back to Opener.   Question: is Responder's pass of 4 forcing on Opener ?   If so, which course of action is responder voting for ?


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